Vehicle preparation for traditional signwriting advice?

[NeilRoss]

Chris – I haven’t done any vehicles in years so I don’t know if the modern paint has changed that much, but I wouldn’t think so. Clean thoroughly/degrease/de-wax/wash. Once you’ve cleaned and dried it, it should be squeaky clean – literally!

That’s it – no need to abrade. In fact I would think that would trash the surface completely.

What are you planning doing?

Cheers – Neil

[Chris Sharps]

Thanks Neil

You have confirmed what I thought.

No job in mind, just something I’ve wondered about. I did one of the last C & G Signwork
courses in the early nineties which taught traditional techniques. The first job I could get
though was working with vinyl and I ended up doing that all the time so never developed the hand
painting skills.

I keep saying I am going to resurrect the brushes and have a practice but never seem to get
round to it!

Thanks again

Chris

[NeilRoss]

quote Chris Sharps:

Thanks Neil

You have confirmed what I thought.

No job in mind, just something I’ve wondered about. I did one of the last C & G Signwork
courses in the early nineties which taught traditional techniques. The first job I could get
though was working with vinyl and I ended up doing that all the time so never developed the hand
painting skills.

I keep saying I am going to resurrect the brushes and have a practice but never seem to get
round to it!

Thanks again

Chris

I seldom have the brushed out, but just by coincidence that’s what I’m doing today. A big rustic slab of oak – varnished and hand lettered. Fair enjoyed it. There’s not much call for hand lettering these days. As you say, vinyl lettering or digital print. Around here it’s pretty much a case of what they can get cheapest or quickest so it’s nice to get an old traditional job now and again.

Good luck with your project.

Cheers – Neil

[Chris Sharps]

As a follow up to my original post.

I was chatting to the guys at a commercial paint / body shop where I do
vinyl work about this. They remembered a sign writer using a scotchbrite
pad to key the areas before lettering. When the paint was completely dry
the panel was polished to remove any abrasion that was still visible.

So maybe it depends on the surface or is it a choice the particular sign writer makes?
Any other brushies have any views?

Thanks for reading

Chris

[Neil Davey]

Hi Chris, the Argus van had recently been sprayed so the sign writing had no problem adhering to the van. Years ago we used to use Farecla G3 rubbing compound on factory finishes and polish after the job was finished.

[Chris Sharps]

Hi Neil

Thanks for your reply. As I said in the original post the Argus van
looked very shiny so I would have been surprised to hear you had rubbed it down first.

Cheers

Chris

[Simon Worrall]

Just make sure there is no wax on the surface.
Use Prepsol or similar for that, and finish with Isopropyl alcohol.

[Chris Sharps]

Thanks Simon

Cleaning very well and removing all residues seems to be the consensus.

Thanks again

Chris

[David Mitchell]

bit of spraypainting background here.

if your goin to use a scotchbrite pad to key the surface make sure it is the fine silver/grey grade.

will polish back up with a fine cutting compound

[Chris Sharps]

Thanks David

That was what the paint / body shop guys said the sign writer used.

Cheers

Chris

[FRANK ARNOLD]

Hi Chris,
Just joined the forum. I’ve been signwriting for over 40 yrs inc many vehicles. If you haven’t already done anything, just use T-cut. That is abrasive enough. Spirit based paints will stay on well enough.
Frank

[Chris Sharps]

Thanks Frank

That’s similar to what Neil Davey said about using G3.
I will bear in mind all the replies if an actual project materialises.

Cheers

Chris

[Alan Drury]

I just used to Tcut the area, never had a problem with Keeps Signwriting Enamel. Showing my age now as that is long gone.
Don’t Tcut fresh paint though, a degrease would be good enough

[Chris Sharps]

Thanks Alan

It seems that as I said earlier the consensus is a good degrease / de wax / and clean
should do it generally especially on new paintwork.

I believe Craftmaster are manufacturing the Keeps colour range now in their own enamels
along with lots of other specialist paints.

Cheers

Chris