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help calibrating a jv3 dx4 solvent epson print head
hi there i brought a head for my 6 colour jv3 160sp, and with great help from the mimaki instructions, installed it, got it printing, but the head angle adjustment is driving me bonkers !, no matter which way i turn it finely i can never get them all as good as the magenta/black comparison.
Also when i do a print with say black, yellow and cyan (as an overprint black), i can see the black and magenta line up (same head), but a green offset, which is the cyan and yellow new head. Its as if its not aligned correctly, never mind the angle adjust (which i was happy with nearly!), when you install the head is there a technique to push the plate over to the far left or far right or front or back etc. any details explanation / diagrams / videos would be great. -
5 Replies
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Hi Paul. Those heads can be a pig to get aligned. Did you replace the head and metal plate or just the head? If it’s just the head (which is what I do more often than not), it could be that the head is too skewed in the metal bracket to be alined properly.
What sort of loupe are you using for the alingment?
Have you done the Y base test?
What resolutions are you trying to print? Is it better on 720 than 540?
Did you set the head height to low before you tried?
Stafford
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Rob
I’ve taken it out and bit better now as I left the back hex screw looser then the front spring kinda rotates the head, then I ran the slant adjust and kept tweaking till dot virtually in line. I think the loupe is x4. But clear enough to align. Is the Y base on the print. All patterns, if so I’ve run this and this is where I can see the cyan and yellow lines are offset to the black by a whisper.
I would like a bit of guidance on the meanings and what to do on the other tests so I can get. The best setup again . I’ve not touched the head adjust as the black magenta and light cyan and magenta are all cock on. -
Rob!? 😀
I use a 50x loupe when doing JV3 calibrations, it does make a difference as the dots need to be bang on on Mimaki’s. The Y base is the shot timing for the heads, from memort it’s in #adjust/print adjust 2. It’s the one that moves the print head really slowly.
As long as you’ve got the mechanicals sorted (i.e slant and unit adjust), the electrical adjustments are fairly simple.
I find it best not to use the basis set option too….
What RIP are you running by the way? Remember that you don’t HAVE to do all of the alingments. For example, Shiraz only uses variable1 for 540 and variable 2 for 720. Only a RIP that uses a single dot pattern (older versions of Onyx for example) need normal-1 and normal-2 calibrations to be set.
I hope that helps?
Dave 😉
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What Rob?
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:lol1: :lol1: :lol1:
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