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  • advice / tips needed for FIXING PVC SIGNBOARDS

    Posted by marooned on November 28, 2002 at 12:37 pm

    I expect this has been asked a thousand times before I joined up,
    but what is the best method of fixing completed PVC Signboards to
    an existing timber shop fascia???

    The manufacturers of Sheet PVC recommend that Screws set in Snap-Cups
    fixed through overlarge holes is the answer but, in my opinion, this looks
    ‘kak’ – especially if the background is anything other than white (which is
    pretty unusual for the ‘Keyboard Tapper Type of Sign Firm’). The result is
    a load of unsightly raised caps, which the more Proffessional Type of Sign
    Firm will find unacceptable.

    We have found that Zebra Screws offer the best alternative. They are self
    drilling and incorporate a flange/washer with a shallow pozi head. These too have drawbacks – (1) they are plated silver, so they need to be sprayed the same colour as the background (2) they tend to scrape the background colour if there is any heat warping and (3) as a Scotsman, they are a wee bit pricy!!!

    Anyone got any secrets they’d like to let us in on….

    Robert Lambie replied 21 years, 5 months ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Robert Lambie

    Member
    November 28, 2002 at 12:46 pm

    as a quick reply mate you would be better with somthing like panatrim..
    you can buy it from amari plastics “glasgow” or europoint display “glasgow”
    you basically fit the trim to the wall and slide in the foam sheet from one end then fit on end piece.
    another alternative but you would need an edge to fix around is alloy 1″x1″
    again you can buy this from aalcco in galsgow…

    hope this helps 😀

  • Tim Shaw

    Member
    November 28, 2002 at 1:42 pm

    If we are using 6mm plus pvc we sink the screw head slightly and cut 10 mm discs of vinyl, in the background colour and stick these over the screw head hole.

    Ideally a frame is better, but not not always suitable, so this is a good cheap fix, for those, “i just want a cheap sign knocking up and screwing on the wall over there” type customers.

  • Mike Brown

    Member
    November 28, 2002 at 2:53 pm

    Firstly – Hi Dave!…and welcome to the UKSG

    Secondly, I know your place – my mother in law retired and moved from the mainland to just across the road from you (in the mews, under the arch, just next to the builders merchants). I saw your shop once while on a walk round once…it was a Sunday otherwise I’d have said hello!…maybe next time we’re over.

    Thirdly, with regards to fixing these fascias – there are lots of ways but one that works really well with unframed board is to apply a few runs of ‘Gripfil’ (all-purpose builders fixative) to the back and then fix the board using a few well placed ‘Polypins’. These are the colour headed nails used to fix upvc fascias etc. they are ‘clout’ nails (barbed so cannot be easily prised out) and have a very very small neat head to them. Made from Stainless Steel and only 5mm in diameter and less than 2mm proud, they are unobtrusive and will not rust or stain…

    Of course, this combination means the sign is difficult to remove – but the gripfil (which goes off within 24 hrs) does bond the board to the old fascia thus preventing any warping or distortion during temperature changes.

    I’m sure others will have other tips and tricks…

    more soon

    mikethesign

  • Martin Pearson

    Member
    November 28, 2002 at 5:33 pm

    Hi Dave and welcome to the UKSG.

    As Robert has said the best way is with a frame, but at the end of the day the customer gets what he pays for. Putting a frame on it makes for better presentation but ups the price. We try to avoid 5mm foam if we can because of the warping and generally use 10mm with which we have never had any problems, mind you its a bit colder in Scotland and we dont get as much sun. We generally put the fixing into a countersunk hole and cover with a small vinyl disc same colour as the background. From the ground you cant really see them so they are a good cheap method for people who dont want to spend money.
    If we do use 5mm foam at the moment we also use the screw caps but we use the two part ones which look better as they are a little more flush. We colour code these to the background to make them less obvious, but you are right there ia still a row of little buttons.
    I havent tried Mikes method, but I will on the next 5mm job we get.
    Mike do you get these polypins at a builders mearchants ? I have never seen them on sale anywhere but I think I know what you mean.

  • Mike Brown

    Member
    November 28, 2002 at 8:41 pm

    Hi Martin…

    I found them at a place called ‘Plastics Direct’ – they supply the UPVC market with raw material lengths etc. – see if there’s anyone similar in your area…

    more soon

    mikethesign

  • brian the brush

    Member
    November 28, 2002 at 9:57 pm

    If at all possible you should NEVER, EVER,fix a sign through the face, it’s not the correct method and looks very bad.I always try to put panels into a panatrim, if the costs are such that this is not pissible then I would go with Tim and try to hide the face fixing in some way. Oh , welcome to the UKSG, by the way, you’ll find lots of advice from ssome great signmakers.

  • Robert Lambie

    Member
    November 29, 2002 at 1:41 am

    the poly pins is somthing that window fitters use alot also… you can get them from “double quick supplies” they are a franchise for windows and plastic supplies… they are all over the country so shouldnt be hard to find on…

    agree with brian though… if you can get the customer to pay that bit more… trim is the best finish all round 😉

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